April 25, 2007
Trinidad and Tobago were phenomenal. I was so tired when I got off the plane, as we had had little sleep. After a short nap in our Bed & Breakfast, we went for a walk. Though tired, we were ecstatic to be there. The lady who ran the Bed & Breakfast was rather difficult to get along with, unaccommodating, and even reduced one other guest to tears. As a result, we made it a point to be out of the house as much as possible. The first few days we spent site-seeing, looking at the children’s parade portion of Carnival, and going out dancing at evening concerts.
The fourth day of Carnival is when we went from observers to participants. People in Trinidad ask you if you’re going to play. This means that you are going to participate in the events. So, you’d respond, “Yes, I’m playing.” We became part of a large group of people who took part in the parading. We arrived at the leader’s / costume designer’s house around 12:00 am. We ate, drank, and dressed for J’ouve (or J’ouvert). According to the BBC news website, “In Trinidad, revelers daub paint and mud on themselves...It is seen as a way of driving away demons. Once washed off it reflects baptism.” In this tradition, we painted and put mud on each other before and throughout the parade, which began at 4:00 am. Loud music and good spirits guided us for hours. At the end, the sun had baked the paint and mud, and I could barely move my face. With many of the participants, you kind of knew what mood they had been in all day as the mud dried their faces in matching expressions. It was fantastic to see everyone let out their inner child, and I mean really let it out. When we returned to the house, we got cleaned up, which was quite a feat, as mud and paint were just caked on. We rested a couple of hours, only to parade again with fresh, clean shirts and shorts. Our whole day was spent walking, dancing, drinking, eating, and loving being alive in Trinidad for Carnival.
The fifth day, still tired from the fourth, we got dressed up in our finest, pre-purchased costumes. Everyone was in full glory for the full day parade. The costumes were just incredibly gorgeous, with an array of colors and styles. The music carried us all forward through the streets and the glory that is Carnival. I am so glad I spent the time and money to be replaced with such a magnificent memory.
The next day, we boarded a ferry for Tobago. I felt a little queasy on the ride, uncertain whether the rocking was solely responsible or coupled with the massive amount of sugar (cake) and coffee I had consumed that morning. After the boat and my stomach settled, I came to realize that I had just arrived in one of the most incredibly beautiful places in the world.
Immediately, we rented a couple of cars. I hadn’t driven in a while, much less on the left side of the road. However, I only managed to knock off one hubcap, which happened right after we rented it. Fortunately, that was the only damage incurred while we were there. We drove to our, what turned out to be, cheap but luxurious accommodations with a great host. It proved to be such a thankfully different experience.
We used the cars to their full potential, seeing the whole island with its waterfalls, curvy narrow roads, foliage, and beautiful seascapes.
One day, we went to a series of falls called Argyle Falls, where we waded, swam, climbed, and even jumped off one area into a pool. The water was cool and refreshing. The falls were everything we had hoped for. The jump was a little scary, as it was a high-dive height jump, but I’m extremely happy I did it all. Then, we drove out to Pirates’ Bay on the northeast side of the island (our B&B being on the western coast). Pirates’ Bay is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. The waves were strong but not forbidding, and it was enlivening to be in paradise.
The next day, we drove out to a place called Speyside to go snorkeling (one volunteer went diving, as he was certified). Those of us snorkeling first went on a short, guided hike on one of the islands, which was being used as a bird sanctuary. Then, we went snorkeling in an area they call Angel Reef. I have never seen such vibrant fish in my life…greens, blues, reds, golds…colors more vibrant than any I’ve seen in my life. Once I got used to the flippers and mask, I totally immersed myself in my underwater wonderland. It was absolutely incredible. Afterwards, three of us went to another waterfall called Rainbow. The others went to the beach. Rainbow Falls was not a series of falls and not quite as fun as Argyle Falls. However, it was beautiful nonetheless.
Another day, we went out to Englishman’s Bay on the north side of the island and spent hours swimming, walking, eating homemade ice cream, and loving life. Englishman’s Bay is also very beautiful, the waves much calmer than those at Pirates’ Bay. The blue and green oceanic mixture there and, in fact, anywhere along the coast simply captivates the eye with its splendor.
The following day, we split up again. I went with three others on a bike ride along the northwest side of the island. The hills made for a challenge, but the ride was wonderfully intoxicating.
Another day, we spent at a beach called Pigeon’s Point, which was within walking distance of us on the western side of Tobago. We watched wind surfers and jet skiers. We relished the warm water and basked in the sun on the soft white sand for hours.
Our final day put us back on the ferry for a smoother ride back to Trinidad. We took a little time in Trinidad before heading to the airport, all very sad to leave. It was, all in all, one of the best, if not THE best, vacations I’ve ever had, and I would recommend it to anyone. I may even go again.
Since I last wrote, we have started building the Gift Shop in Gunsi. We have put the frame in, some wood prep on the frame, and started putting boards on the frame. I’m excited about the prospects after seeing how much can be accomplished in a day. The problem is finding good days to work, when villagers can actually come help build. However, I’m hoping we have it completed soon. In the next few months, we have to work on getting some training for those who will work in the store. It’s good to be getting some actual, hands-on, Peace Corps project work done, and I hope to do more soon.
In March, I ate my first kapasi (kah-pah-see), which is Saramaccan for armadillo. The armadillo here is very tasty, especially the way Saramaccans cook it. On April 2nd, I ate tapir, known to Saramaccans as bofo (boh-foe). Though I’ve eaten it before, this is the first time it was killed by someone in Gunsi. My basia (under captain) shot it. That night, they cut it all up and divided it among the villagers. With an animal the size of a tapir, every single person in Gunsi was able to find some meat. The first I heard of the tapir was one woman running through the village, shouting that bofo had been killed, all the while running with the tapir’s ear in her hand. It was a great moment. I don’t think I’ll ever forget the image of her running through the village, ear in hand, letting everyone know that, after a long wait, some meat had finally arrived. The bofo was delicious.
On March 23rd, I took a canoe down river just a little ways to go fishing. Well, I didn’t catch anything before the line got caught on a stone or submerged log and snapped when I pulled. At the time, I had no hook or line left to make reparations. So, I returned to Gunsi. Once I arrived, I rinsed the borrowed boat and one other one with water. As I was washing the second one out, a fish jumped up and landed right in the middle of the boat. I do not know whether it was divine intervention, the river nymphs feeling sorry for me, or perhaps I just catch fish better with a canoe rather than a pole. In any case, I gave my catch to a lady in the village. Next time, I probably won’t even bother with the pole.
On March 24th, I started my first lesson in a separate class which involves arts and crafts and, hopefully, will extend into other realms of knowledge, such as the solar system. The English class is going well. However, I wanted to start a completely distinct, fun class. So, on the 24th, we learned a little about shading…chiaroscuro, in fact, an artistic method of distributing light and shade in a picture. I learned it in high school. Shading, on something like a sphere, can be done by drawing the pencil across the page repeatedly, more heavily in darker places, or by repeatedly dotting the page. Teaching kids to draw stick figures would be easy, but I had to choose chiaroscuro…and in Saramaccan, nonetheless. Not an easy task. I don’t think it went over quite like I’d hoped, but so it goes. In another class more recently, we did collages, which turned out to be a great success. It was a little simpler and a whole lot of fun. I’m hoping to do more, along the lines of mask-making, creating snowflakes out of paper, and painting in watercolor. I love to see children do a craft or learn something new, and I hope that eventually they, themselves, will find more value in it.
On April 6th, I heard it for about the third time that week. I thought that the villagers just didn’t understand what I was saying. However, I’m told they understand; I just talk quickly. I talk Saramaccan fast. Who would have thought? I guess that, in my struggle to learn the language as I’ve been learning it, I’ve started to talk faster. I thought that maybe just the increased rate of Ameri-maccan (what I call my American version of Saramaccan) was confusing to them, but I am told that they understand. I suppose I’m just so happy to get the words out that it’s like an explosion. I still have some problems understanding, especially when they go into deeper Saramaccan or mix a lot of Dutch words into what they’re saying. However, when I understand, I seem to respond in Saramaccan hesi (heh-see), meaning fast. I, myself, never would have thought it possible in two years.
On March 26th, one of the village women came to sit down in my house. We talked about America, my family, working in gardens here, and about the possibility of my staying another year. I asked her what she thought she would like the next volunteer to be like. Mainly, I was asking whether she thought a male or female would be good to have in the village. She turned to me and said, without choosing either, that the next one she would want to be of “di wan fa” (dee wahn fah), meaning of the one fashion, the one manner. She went on to say that some people see themselves as being higher in status than others, “moon hei” (moh hey), more high…higher in social status, even too good for people. She said that I do not act like this. In other words, unlike many tourists, city people, etc. who come to Gunsi, I live like I actually believe we’re equal.
Whatever work with the class, with the gift shop, with whatever I may do here and is visible to the eye, if I were to come away with just that, with the knowledge that I was seen by the people here as living with them like an equal, I will truly be a happy man. Sometimes, it’s difficult to assess if you make any difference at all. The little things you do may not appear to create a ripple, and the larger projects may never get done like you would like or even at all. However, I guess that wherever you go, whatever you may do, whether you see it or not, there’s some influence, some effect you have on others. It made me very happy to hear that, however small, I have made a positive impact on at least one member of the community. Her words, though simple, proved to be a wondrous gift to me. It truly is the little moments in life that count.
Trinidad and Tobago were phenomenal. I was so tired when I got off the plane, as we had had little sleep. After a short nap in our Bed & Breakfast, we went for a walk. Though tired, we were ecstatic to be there. The lady who ran the Bed & Breakfast was rather difficult to get along with, unaccommodating, and even reduced one other guest to tears. As a result, we made it a point to be out of the house as much as possible. The first few days we spent site-seeing, looking at the children’s parade portion of Carnival, and going out dancing at evening concerts.
The fourth day of Carnival is when we went from observers to participants. People in Trinidad ask you if you’re going to play. This means that you are going to participate in the events. So, you’d respond, “Yes, I’m playing.” We became part of a large group of people who took part in the parading. We arrived at the leader’s / costume designer’s house around 12:00 am. We ate, drank, and dressed for J’ouve (or J’ouvert). According to the BBC news website, “In Trinidad, revelers daub paint and mud on themselves...It is seen as a way of driving away demons. Once washed off it reflects baptism.” In this tradition, we painted and put mud on each other before and throughout the parade, which began at 4:00 am. Loud music and good spirits guided us for hours. At the end, the sun had baked the paint and mud, and I could barely move my face. With many of the participants, you kind of knew what mood they had been in all day as the mud dried their faces in matching expressions. It was fantastic to see everyone let out their inner child, and I mean really let it out. When we returned to the house, we got cleaned up, which was quite a feat, as mud and paint were just caked on. We rested a couple of hours, only to parade again with fresh, clean shirts and shorts. Our whole day was spent walking, dancing, drinking, eating, and loving being alive in Trinidad for Carnival.
The fifth day, still tired from the fourth, we got dressed up in our finest, pre-purchased costumes. Everyone was in full glory for the full day parade. The costumes were just incredibly gorgeous, with an array of colors and styles. The music carried us all forward through the streets and the glory that is Carnival. I am so glad I spent the time and money to be replaced with such a magnificent memory.
The next day, we boarded a ferry for Tobago. I felt a little queasy on the ride, uncertain whether the rocking was solely responsible or coupled with the massive amount of sugar (cake) and coffee I had consumed that morning. After the boat and my stomach settled, I came to realize that I had just arrived in one of the most incredibly beautiful places in the world.
Immediately, we rented a couple of cars. I hadn’t driven in a while, much less on the left side of the road. However, I only managed to knock off one hubcap, which happened right after we rented it. Fortunately, that was the only damage incurred while we were there. We drove to our, what turned out to be, cheap but luxurious accommodations with a great host. It proved to be such a thankfully different experience.
We used the cars to their full potential, seeing the whole island with its waterfalls, curvy narrow roads, foliage, and beautiful seascapes.
One day, we went to a series of falls called Argyle Falls, where we waded, swam, climbed, and even jumped off one area into a pool. The water was cool and refreshing. The falls were everything we had hoped for. The jump was a little scary, as it was a high-dive height jump, but I’m extremely happy I did it all. Then, we drove out to Pirates’ Bay on the northeast side of the island (our B&B being on the western coast). Pirates’ Bay is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. The waves were strong but not forbidding, and it was enlivening to be in paradise.
The next day, we drove out to a place called Speyside to go snorkeling (one volunteer went diving, as he was certified). Those of us snorkeling first went on a short, guided hike on one of the islands, which was being used as a bird sanctuary. Then, we went snorkeling in an area they call Angel Reef. I have never seen such vibrant fish in my life…greens, blues, reds, golds…colors more vibrant than any I’ve seen in my life. Once I got used to the flippers and mask, I totally immersed myself in my underwater wonderland. It was absolutely incredible. Afterwards, three of us went to another waterfall called Rainbow. The others went to the beach. Rainbow Falls was not a series of falls and not quite as fun as Argyle Falls. However, it was beautiful nonetheless.
Another day, we went out to Englishman’s Bay on the north side of the island and spent hours swimming, walking, eating homemade ice cream, and loving life. Englishman’s Bay is also very beautiful, the waves much calmer than those at Pirates’ Bay. The blue and green oceanic mixture there and, in fact, anywhere along the coast simply captivates the eye with its splendor.
The following day, we split up again. I went with three others on a bike ride along the northwest side of the island. The hills made for a challenge, but the ride was wonderfully intoxicating.
Another day, we spent at a beach called Pigeon’s Point, which was within walking distance of us on the western side of Tobago. We watched wind surfers and jet skiers. We relished the warm water and basked in the sun on the soft white sand for hours.
Our final day put us back on the ferry for a smoother ride back to Trinidad. We took a little time in Trinidad before heading to the airport, all very sad to leave. It was, all in all, one of the best, if not THE best, vacations I’ve ever had, and I would recommend it to anyone. I may even go again.
Since I last wrote, we have started building the Gift Shop in Gunsi. We have put the frame in, some wood prep on the frame, and started putting boards on the frame. I’m excited about the prospects after seeing how much can be accomplished in a day. The problem is finding good days to work, when villagers can actually come help build. However, I’m hoping we have it completed soon. In the next few months, we have to work on getting some training for those who will work in the store. It’s good to be getting some actual, hands-on, Peace Corps project work done, and I hope to do more soon.
In March, I ate my first kapasi (kah-pah-see), which is Saramaccan for armadillo. The armadillo here is very tasty, especially the way Saramaccans cook it. On April 2nd, I ate tapir, known to Saramaccans as bofo (boh-foe). Though I’ve eaten it before, this is the first time it was killed by someone in Gunsi. My basia (under captain) shot it. That night, they cut it all up and divided it among the villagers. With an animal the size of a tapir, every single person in Gunsi was able to find some meat. The first I heard of the tapir was one woman running through the village, shouting that bofo had been killed, all the while running with the tapir’s ear in her hand. It was a great moment. I don’t think I’ll ever forget the image of her running through the village, ear in hand, letting everyone know that, after a long wait, some meat had finally arrived. The bofo was delicious.
On March 23rd, I took a canoe down river just a little ways to go fishing. Well, I didn’t catch anything before the line got caught on a stone or submerged log and snapped when I pulled. At the time, I had no hook or line left to make reparations. So, I returned to Gunsi. Once I arrived, I rinsed the borrowed boat and one other one with water. As I was washing the second one out, a fish jumped up and landed right in the middle of the boat. I do not know whether it was divine intervention, the river nymphs feeling sorry for me, or perhaps I just catch fish better with a canoe rather than a pole. In any case, I gave my catch to a lady in the village. Next time, I probably won’t even bother with the pole.
On March 24th, I started my first lesson in a separate class which involves arts and crafts and, hopefully, will extend into other realms of knowledge, such as the solar system. The English class is going well. However, I wanted to start a completely distinct, fun class. So, on the 24th, we learned a little about shading…chiaroscuro, in fact, an artistic method of distributing light and shade in a picture. I learned it in high school. Shading, on something like a sphere, can be done by drawing the pencil across the page repeatedly, more heavily in darker places, or by repeatedly dotting the page. Teaching kids to draw stick figures would be easy, but I had to choose chiaroscuro…and in Saramaccan, nonetheless. Not an easy task. I don’t think it went over quite like I’d hoped, but so it goes. In another class more recently, we did collages, which turned out to be a great success. It was a little simpler and a whole lot of fun. I’m hoping to do more, along the lines of mask-making, creating snowflakes out of paper, and painting in watercolor. I love to see children do a craft or learn something new, and I hope that eventually they, themselves, will find more value in it.
On April 6th, I heard it for about the third time that week. I thought that the villagers just didn’t understand what I was saying. However, I’m told they understand; I just talk quickly. I talk Saramaccan fast. Who would have thought? I guess that, in my struggle to learn the language as I’ve been learning it, I’ve started to talk faster. I thought that maybe just the increased rate of Ameri-maccan (what I call my American version of Saramaccan) was confusing to them, but I am told that they understand. I suppose I’m just so happy to get the words out that it’s like an explosion. I still have some problems understanding, especially when they go into deeper Saramaccan or mix a lot of Dutch words into what they’re saying. However, when I understand, I seem to respond in Saramaccan hesi (heh-see), meaning fast. I, myself, never would have thought it possible in two years.
On March 26th, one of the village women came to sit down in my house. We talked about America, my family, working in gardens here, and about the possibility of my staying another year. I asked her what she thought she would like the next volunteer to be like. Mainly, I was asking whether she thought a male or female would be good to have in the village. She turned to me and said, without choosing either, that the next one she would want to be of “di wan fa” (dee wahn fah), meaning of the one fashion, the one manner. She went on to say that some people see themselves as being higher in status than others, “moon hei” (moh hey), more high…higher in social status, even too good for people. She said that I do not act like this. In other words, unlike many tourists, city people, etc. who come to Gunsi, I live like I actually believe we’re equal.
Whatever work with the class, with the gift shop, with whatever I may do here and is visible to the eye, if I were to come away with just that, with the knowledge that I was seen by the people here as living with them like an equal, I will truly be a happy man. Sometimes, it’s difficult to assess if you make any difference at all. The little things you do may not appear to create a ripple, and the larger projects may never get done like you would like or even at all. However, I guess that wherever you go, whatever you may do, whether you see it or not, there’s some influence, some effect you have on others. It made me very happy to hear that, however small, I have made a positive impact on at least one member of the community. Her words, though simple, proved to be a wondrous gift to me. It truly is the little moments in life that count.
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